Sawing Technique archive
Tuesday 12 May 2009
Anthony Bailey shows us some winning table saw tips and tricksError loading Partial View script (file: ~/Views/MacroPartials/cwsGalleryImages.cshtml)
Anthony Bailey takes us through the finer points of tablesaw technique, helping you cut those awkward shapes and tackle other common tablesaw problems.
Cutting awkward shapesIf we take the seat 'nose' (the front edge) this is awkward to shape as it is an assymetrical profile and is hard work doing all that by hand. A solution is to use the tablesaw canting the blade at different angles to make each successive cut in turn. You need to mark the end profile with a template on both ends of the blank so you can choose which is the most practical end to do each cut from. Note that you must not remove the crown guard to do this operation as the blade is completely exposed. If you blade diameter is large enough this should not be a problem.
Sawing different materialsMost saw tables have a fence that can be slid forwards or backwards and then locked. There is a good reason for this, in the normal forward position it is fine for manufactured board as it is quite stable. You should of course have a fine tooth blade fitted first.
However if you are cutting solid timber particularly hardwoods, then the fence should be withdrawn forwards preferably as far as the front edge of the rip blade, if not slightly more. This is because hardwoods particularly can 'spring' when cut as tensions in the wood are released and can trap the blade causing a kickback or pushing the cut offline.