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Another new direction for me

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Pete in Welland View Drop Down
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    Posted: 22 May 2019 at 4:42am
This is just the beginning It's a practice piece using the core from a very plain large maple vessel that urgently needs some bling.
I did a Google for Maori Tattoos and liked what I saw. The real thing leaves deep pits and furrows on the skin so my first weapon of choice was a 300,000rpm dental drill with a 1/16" diameter piece of HSS rod as a bit. Found it very hard to make decent outlines but worked great doing the fills. So went out and bought a wood burner and used it to give me some cleaner lines. As you can see I need to practice
The top band is 2"" high to give you some idea of scale.

Next step is to think about adding some sort of colour, maybe dyes. I need to close up some of the gaps in the scroll pattern to make the negative space work better and also be careful with connecting lines. But this is all new to me so just one step at a time.
This is the final destination. The vessel is 15" diameter and 10" high with 1/2" wall thickness and as you can see a real plain jane. Has a coat of shellac as a sanding sealer on it right now

Comments always welcomed and any help much appreciated
Pete
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dalboy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2019 at 8:38am
I like the pattern as is, and yes it certainly is another learning curve.
If you are going to pyrograph the second piece I would not have sealed it until after the burning.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Pete in Welland Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2019 at 2:55pm
So I used shellac hoping I could easily sand out pencil marks after burning. Is there any way I can do this without the sealer? I'm drawing the pattern freehand using french curves and home made templates so the process needs some guide lines which then need to be removed. I know it's normal to use carbon paper to transfer patterns before burning but that won't be easy to do on a surface with a double curve to it. Any ideas?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dalboy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2019 at 4:59pm
Normally a light sand will remove pencil marks as they only need to be lightly applied in the first place.
Don't use carbon paper as it leaves a waxy residue if you need to use anything to transfer a pattern get some graphite paper as it is easier to remove just like a pencil.
Also, any sealer will make it hard to apply some of the finishes like stains.
When applying stains the pyrography lines will help prevent bleeding but only if the stain is applied thinly.

Practice on a scrap piece of wood to get the idea of how paints will react

I did this with spirit stain after I burnt it I had to use two thin coats



Edited by Dalboy - 22 May 2019 at 5:00pm
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Pete in Welland View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Pete in Welland Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2019 at 9:20pm
Thanks. I appreciate the help
Pete
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bodrighy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 May 2019 at 4:33pm
1stly, use a very soft pencil as a hard one will score the wood and do it on highly sanded ( I go to 1200 for Mo) surface.  As said carbon paper is not a good idea bu graphite paper is fine. Burning the wood first can stop the dye, stain etc seeping in the wood but you need to have very clean lines. Mo uses a blade that is virtually a scalpel when doing her designs and uses mainly calligraphy inks. The pencil can be rubbed out after the burning when done on bare wood. Maple or lime are good woods, avoid oak, ash and any wood that has a more open grain as you won't get a decent burn. With practice you will get this sort of result.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nicksimpson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 May 2019 at 8:41pm
This has been a very useful thread
Thanks
Nick
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https://www.BogleCraft.co.uk
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Pete in Welland View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Pete in Welland Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 May 2019 at 2:24pm
Yes useful for me as it helps this old brain focus a bit better So many thanks for the input.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chris Smith Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 May 2019 at 4:56am
Pete 
like the pyro work mate look foreward to seeing the finished article ,theres been some talk on this thread about sealing before pyro ,my opinion would be not to do it as it will clog youre burning tip up very quik sap is bad enough a small bronze brush at hand will keep youre tips clean regular use will keep the cut much clearer and the whole job smarter looking .well done with youre piece though mate like it .regards chris 
dont burn it turn it
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