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Jammed faceplate

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Journeyman
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    Posted: 21 Aug 2019 at 5:47am
I've been doing (and writing about) joinery/cabinetmaking for many years and recently started turning on a Record Power DML18SH. With it came Alan Holtham's introductory DVD which I watched carefully several times, especially noting the bit about ensuring the faceplate is up against the spindle nose so that it doesn't slam home and jam. However, having now turned the outside of a bowl, and the chucking point ready to start the inside, and despite my care in that respect, I now find that the faceplate is jammed solid onto the spindle nose. In've tried using a gardening glove to give me a better grip on the bowl but it flatly refuses to part from the lathe.
I've now been away from home for a few days, but before that I applied some WD40 to the faceplate/spindle nose joint, several times a day for several days, and I'm hoping I just might get home today to find that it's penetrated sufficiently to release the joint. Well, that's what I'm hoping . . .
Does anyone else have experience of this, and what might I do to prevent it recurring (assuming I can get this one off!)

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dalboy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Aug 2019 at 10:25am
Have you tried putting the spanner on the shaft to help hold that before trying to unscrew the plate the spanner flats can be found on the shaft inside the belt change box. Once the spanner is on then try if it will not still move then attach some blocks to the faceplate and try a small lever on them for extra leverage. Sometimes a sharp tap(and I mean a Tap) on the lever may help it start to move.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Handcrafter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Aug 2019 at 6:31pm
Thanks very much for the tips - unfortunately nothing seemed to work, including using penetrating oil on the contact between faceplate and spindle over a number of days. I even tried applying heat from a heat gun in the hope that the faceplate collar would expand first as it was nearest the heat. Eventually, I decided that my precious turning practice time was worth the sacrifice of a single bowl blank - so I drilled down into the blank from one side and used a long and strong bowl gouge as a long lever, against a spanner on the spindle flats. Even then, it took a fair bit of wellie to shift it but it did the trick.
Inspection of the contact surfaces confirmed my suspicions - the back of the faceplate boss was very poorly finished , causing it to grip against the spindle nose. I've now bought a new faceplate, machined to a fine, shiny finish and hope not to have that problem again!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dalboy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Aug 2019 at 6:41pm
I have a record CL3 and don't seem to have any problems but I can understand why it stuck. It will pay to get a chuck as soon as you can life will become easier
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Handcrafter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Aug 2019 at 6:49pm
Oh, I've got a chuck - very useful indeed, I agree. However, before I can use that I need to turn a chucking point on the base of the bowl - which as far as I know requires a face plate. I'm hoping that my new faceplate with its fine machine surfaces will resolve the issue, but just as further insurance I've given the thread a smear of copper grease.
So far, all seems well with it.
Check out my stuff at www.michaelforsterwoodwork.weebly.com
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ian Thorn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Aug 2019 at 10:30pm
You could use a face plate ring it fits in the chuck . I never use a faceplate I use a chuck screw with the tail stock up to form the spigett . Tip allways make sure the 2 registering faces are clean and threads are clean screw the faceplate on till it nearly touches then just firm up not see how strong I am tight '

Ian
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ron.d Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Aug 2019 at 5:11pm
WD40 is not a petrating oil, the WD stands for water displacement and according to legend is the fortieth formula they tried!

Use the spanner as Derek said, and not the spindle lock, try using a hot air type paint stripper, not the gas fired type, and heat the face plate, keep trying to free it and it should come free.
Once you finally get it off, remember to take it off when not using the lathe as it will tighted all by itself, some saybecause it rusts, I think maybe it gets wood dust in the thread which attracts moisture. whatever do not leave it on for long.
I use special wire brush to clean both the internal thread in the chuck, and the inner faces of the morse tapers. You can get oneof these from any DIY shed, in the plumbing department, it is used to deburr and clean 15mm copper pipes
Ron
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