Sycamore Log Birdbox

Tuesday 02 June 2009

Colin Simpson turns this neat little birdbox in a day

1.The finished birdbox (PHOTOGRAPHS BY COLIN SIMPSON)

Back

This bird box, made from a whole log, is a great project for practising end-grain hollowing with your specialist hollowing tool. You will be hollowing through a large aperture in the bottom so you will be able to see what the cutting tip is doing and you do not need to make the inside smooth. However, if you do not have a specialist hollowing tool, you will still be able to make this birdbox by simply hollowing it out using a fingernail profile bowl gouge.

I have recently had to have an ugly, ivy-clad sycamore (Acer pseudoplatanus) tree felled as it was leaning precariously towards my neighbour's fence, and I decided to use a piece of this for the box.

No finish or preservative is needed - and certainly do not put any on the inside. If you do wish to put a finish on the outside use a water-based one. In time the box will weather and blend in to its environment.

Contact the RSPB

The size of box shown here - and particularly the size of the hole - is suitable for tree sparrows, pied flycatchers and great tits. You can, of course change the sizes, but do pay particular attention to the hole size. If in doubt I recommend that you contact the Royal Society for the Protection of Birds (RSPB) or visit their website at www.rspb.org. Details of the best locations to site your bird box should also be sought.

step-by-step

1 Mount the log between centres and square off both ends using a fingernail bowl gouge. My log was very unbalanced so lathe speed initially was 350rpm. Roughly shape the outside using a spindle roughing gouge or a fingernail profile bowl gouge. Do not put too much shape into the roof at this stage. Strength is needed here in order to hollow it out

2 Turn a spigot to fit your chuck - I am using the Gripper jaws from Axminster - you will need a good grip to hollow this size log

3 Mount the piece in your chuck and drill a hole down the centre of the piece to a depth of 200mm (8in). I'm using a spade bit in a Jacobs chuck mounted in the tailstock

4 To hollow the piece start with the hollowing tool - in this case a fingernail profile bowl gouge - in the hole and swing the handle away from you. With the flute of the gouge pointing to about 10 o'clock, use the cutting edge just to the left of the tip of the tool to make the cut

5 Complete the hollowing and cut notches on the first 125mm (5in) of the inside; this will help the baby birds to climb out. I used a side cutting toothpick cutter to do this. Cut a step in the bottom to accommodate the baseplate. Lock the spindle of your lathe, measure 125mm (5in) up for the bottom of the box and drill a 28mm (1 1/8in) hole in the side wall

6 Reverse chuck the piece, holding it with the jaws expanding on the circumference of the hole or, if you do not have big enough jaws, turn a jam chuck. Bring up the tailstock for additional security and complete the shape of the outside

7 Turn a plug from a separate piece of wood to fit the base. Do not make this a tight fit because it needs to be removable and will be screwed in place. Drill a few drainage holes in the base

8 The birdbox fixed in an appropriate position, to attract birds looking to nest

9 The finished bird box

Glossary Rollover a term to view its definition

  • Bowl Gouge
     

    Bowl Gouge

    Bowl Gouge

    A cutting tool with a deep flute and a heavy cross-section. These are normally made from round bars and the flute is milled out. The round bar fits into the handle thus giving the tool a great deal of strength to enable it to overhang the toolrest a long way in order to hollow out deep bowls. Its primary function is for faceplate - or bowl turning - but it can also be used in spindle work. The bevel angle is ground to suit the user but is anything between 40 degrees and 80 degrees. Traditionally, bowl gouges are ground straight across, but many turners prefer to grind the wings back. There are many terms for a swept back bowl gouge - fingernail grind, O'Donnell grind, Irish grind, Ellsworth grind, lady's finger - to name a few. There may be subtle differences in these grinds, but generically they are all bowl gouge grinds where the wings have been ground back.

     
  • Spindle Roughing Gouge
     

    Spindle Roughing Gouge

    Spindle Roughing Gouge

    This gouge is semicircular in section and the bevel is ground at between 35 and 45 degrees. The cutting edge is usually ground straight across. It is normally used in spindle or between centres turning for reducing a square blank to a round section - known as roughing down. This gouge is commonly known as a roughing gouge, but is more accurately described as a Spindle Roughing Gouge as it must not be used on faceplate work, e.g. for turning bowls.

     
  • Tailstock
     

    Tailstock

    Tailstock

    Like the headstock, this is normally made from cast iron or fabricated in steel. It is designed to slide along the bed and be clamped to the bed in its chosen position. The method of clamping it varies between manufacturers, but a common clamping method is by means of a cam locking assembly. The tailstock houses the quill or barrel, which in turn houses a revolving centre, allowing spindle work to be supported.

     
  • Chuck
     

    Chuck

    Chuck

    A holding device consisting of adjustable jaws that centre a workpiece in a lathe or centre a tool in a drill. There are many different types of chuck. Scroll chuck, collet chuck, pin chuck and screw chuck are a few examples. The photograph shows a scroll chuck on the left and two different kinds of screw chuck

     
  • Reverse Chucking
     

    Reverse Chucking

    Reverse Chucking

    The process of turning a part finished bowl or hollow form around and re-gripping it to allow access to the other end. This is often done in order to turn away the chucking spigot or recess and to finish off the piece. This can be achieved in several ways

     

Diagrams Click an image to enlarge

Related Articles