Hollow Spindles

Thursday 12 March 2009

Mark Baker and John Lovatt look at how different parts can affect performance

1.Using a knockout bar to remove a drive centre

Hollow, or through-bored spindles, have a number of advantages:

1 Easier ejection of Morse-taper tools using a rod or knock out bar. With non-hollow spindles, the safest method of ejection is by an ejector which fits the spindle thread.

2 Morse tapers are easier to keep clear of debris, because they can be blown or brushed through. This reduces the likelihood of debris interfering with the correct seating of the tool in the Morse taper, and the possibility of the tool slipping. The latter could score, damage, or destroy the mating surface of the Morse-taper bore. Once damaged, the Morse taper's efficiency is compromised, and damage may also be caused to other Morse tapers put into the spindle. The spindle loses its ability to hold tools securely, and may need replacing, an expensive job at best.

3 Economy and speed in feeding long lengths of wood through to a hollow work-holding device. This is especially relevant in production work, where only the end of the timber would be wasted, against the sacrificial holding point needed on individual pieces. Through-bored or hollow spindles allow some work to be reversed in the chuck without tailstock support, allowing the end to be detailed.

4 Adding a draw bar improves the security of Morse-taper-based tooling. This is particularly important where the tool's cutting action pulls directly at the taper, such as when turning with a chisel away from the headstock or, in the case of a drill or boring tool which tends to bind, when withdrawing after cutting. This method of holding requires the Morse-taper tool to be made with a threaded end section to take the draw-bar. A draw-bar can also help counteract the effects of a damaged or worn Morse-taper bore.

Double-ended spindles

Some lathes let you turn at both ends of the headstock. They are usually of a fixed headstock design. To differentiate between the two ends they are referred to as Inboard, or over-bed, and Outboard (as seen from the turners view).

Because lathes usually have a main direction of rotation, the thread on the outboard end will be left-handed (opposite handed to the inboard side), or outboard extras would tend to unscrew, with bad results.

Both fittings can be engineered to have the same thread size. For example, both threads could be 1 1/2in x 6tpi, allowing dual-threaded accessories - those with a left and right-handed thread machined into them. There is a practical limit of about 25mm (1in), providing the thread is of a fairly coarse pitch.

But most machines don't have this facility, usually having different fitting sizes on each side. This need to duplicate accessories, particularly chucks, makes this type of design more expensive. There are advantages as well as disadvantages with this type of lathe.

Advantages

- Better ergonomics when bowl turning. This means the turner can see and stand in a better position when working on the outboard end of the lathe, as there is no lathe bed to hinder access. The turning capacity is greatly increased without having to massively increase the swing over the bed for inboard turning

- Increased rigidity, as the bed and headstock are made in one piece or are rigidly bolted together

Disadvantages

- The location of the drive pulley, means this type of design usually makes speed changing and belt replacement more difficult. We'll cover this in more detail when we look at the drive chain

- The need to duplicate accessories

- The outboard facility needs a lot more workshop floor area to get to it correctly

Glossary Rollover a term to view its definition

  • Lathe
     

    Lathe

    Lathe

    Lathes come in various types and sizes and prices. The average woodworker will only need a lathe for turning spindles and things like knobs or bun feet for furniture whereas a woodturner will be much more demanding of a lathe. A lathe has a bed to which is fitted a headstock which contains the pulleys and belt for creating the drive output to a shaft which can be fitted with various means of turning the work such as a drive centre or a woodchuck. The drive motor is attached to the headstock. At the other end of the lathe bed is the tailstock. This is precisely aligned with the headstock drive centre and has its own means of supporting the other end of the spindle blank that is being turned. The tailstock can move along the bed, there is also an adjustable tool rest in between, for supporting whatever lathe tool is being used. Woodturning is a complex discipline in its own right.

     
  • Headstock
     

    Headstock

    Headstock

    This is normally made from cast iron or fabricated in steel and houses the lathe's spindle and one set of pulleys. (The corresponding set of pulleys it attached to the motor's spindle, which in some models can also be incorporated within the headstock) The spindle is supported by two or more bearings at the front and back of the headstock. Some lathes have their headstock fixed rigidly to the bed; others are designed to swivel and/or move along the bed. Rigidly fixed headstocks have their spindles in line with the bed and the diameter of work they are capable of holding is limited by the height of the spindle above the bed. Lathes whose headstock swivel are not limited in this way.

     
  • Tailstock
     

    Tailstock

    Tailstock

    Like the headstock, this is normally made from cast iron or fabricated in steel. It is designed to slide along the bed and be clamped to the bed in its chosen position. The method of clamping it varies between manufacturers, but a common clamping method is by means of a cam locking assembly. The tailstock houses the quill or barrel, which in turn houses a revolving centre, allowing spindle work to be supported.

     

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF JANE ARNULL

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