Elliptical Padauk Box

Tuesday 03 March 2009

Len Grantham turns this elliptical box without mechanical aid

1.The finished padauk elliptical box (PHOTOGRAPHS BY LEN GRANTHAM)

I had wanted to turn an oval box for some time, but found the necessary equipment very expensive. David Springett has detailed instructions for making an oval chuck in his book, Adventures in Woodturning, but the aim of this project was to be able to turn an elliptical shape without using mechanical aids.

It initially occurred to me that perhaps by turning off two pairs of offset centres, a shape very close to an oval could be obtained, and after experimenting on my computer with various sizes, concluded that using a 100mm (4in) diameter blank and 8mm (5 1/8in) offset either side of the centre would produce a fairly accurate oval shape.

For this project I chose to use a piece of padauk (Pterocarpus dalbergioides) measuring 100 x 100 x 85mm (4 x 4 x 3 1/4in) and carefully marked the centre at each end, as well as two points 8mm (5/16in) from the centre, on a diagonal. This was then repeated at the other end to ensure that they coincided.

Problems

I used 12mm (1/2in) fixed and live steb centres for holding the piece, as these gave clear access to all three centre points. I came across a variety of problems, such as realising I had no way to determine how to remove the same amount when the piece was set up on the other pair of off-set centres, but this was resolved by cutting an 80mm diameter by 1mm (3 1/8 x 5/64in) wide spigot on each end.

I found that mounting the piece between the two offset centres produced a reasonable oval shape, but it is important to take into account starting at a slow speed, due to the out of balance element.

Whilst I am pleased with the project overall, unfortunately I have yet to devise a way to make the inside of the box oval, but this is something, which I wish to overcome in the future.

Glossary Rollover a term to view its definition

  • Parting Tool
     

    Parting Tool

    Parting Tool

    As the picture shows, there are several different types of parting tool - three of which are shown here. On the left is a narrow (3mm) parting tool which is very useful when parting work where the least amount of grain mismatch is desirable, for example when parting the lid from the base in box making. The middle tool is a straight sided, standard parting tool and the one on the right is a diamond parting tool where the widest part of the tool is at the cutting edge. This can be advantageous when cutting deep grooves because it means less of the tool is rubbing on the sides of the groove. Parting tools primary task is to part wood off in spindle work but they are also used to cut tenons or spigots and grooves. They can also be used to cut beads.

     
  • Spindle Gouge
     

    Spindle Gouge

    Spindle Gouge

    Modern day spindle gouges are made in the same way as bowl gouges - from a round bar of M2 high speed steel with the flute milled out. The flute is shallower and more open than that of a bowl gouge. Traditionally spindles gouges were forged from a flat, rectangular sectioned bar and some manufacturers have started making a modern day version of this, commonly known as the Continental Style spindle gouge. Like their name suggests, spindle gouges are used to cut details such as beads, coves and fillets on spindle work.

     
  • Spindle Roughing Gouge
     

    Spindle Roughing Gouge

    Spindle Roughing Gouge

    This gouge is semicircular in section and the bevel is ground at between 35 and 45 degrees. The cutting edge is usually ground straight across. It is normally used in spindle or between centres turning for reducing a square blank to a round section - known as roughing down. This gouge is commonly known as a roughing gouge, but is more accurately described as a Spindle Roughing Gouge as it must not be used on faceplate work, e.g. for turning bowls.

     

Diagrams Click an image to enlarge

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