Ebonised Hollow Form

Monday 08 December 2008

Tracy Owen turns a textured, ebonised hollow form

1.The finished hollow form

This hollow form was made from a piece of ash which had been lying in my timber shelter for around 12 months. I coated the end grain with some PVA glue to prevent it from splitting.

This piece was all heartwood with a moisture content of 40%, which is higher than sapwood, so it was ideal for making a hollow form. I have found that any wood with a moisture content of less than 25-30% is too dry for thin-walled hollowing as without the flex in the wood, it easily splits. Some might say that there is a

lot going on with this piece, especially the texturing, ebonising and the cutting of the neck. As an alternative, it could have been left with a smooth sanded finish or a bright colour could have been used instead of it being ebonised. The neck could have been left uncut or cut to a different shape - the choice is yours!

Glossary Rollover a term to view its definition

  • Parting Tool
     

    Parting Tool

    Parting Tool

    As the picture shows, there are several different types of parting tool - three of which are shown here. On the left is a narrow (3mm) parting tool which is very useful when parting work where the least amount of grain mismatch is desirable, for example when parting the lid from the base in box making. The middle tool is a straight sided, standard parting tool and the one on the right is a diamond parting tool where the widest part of the tool is at the cutting edge. This can be advantageous when cutting deep grooves because it means less of the tool is rubbing on the sides of the groove. Parting tools primary task is to part wood off in spindle work but they are also used to cut tenons or spigots and grooves. They can also be used to cut beads.

     
  • Skew Chisel
     

    Skew Chisel

    Skew Chisel

    An extremely useful tool but has a reputation for being difficult to control. Certainly you can get some nasty catches with it but it is worth mastering. It is used mainly in spindle work and produces a very fine finish from the tool, requiring little, if any sanding. Planing cuts, peeling cuts and slicing cuts can be made with the skew as well as turning beads, coves and 'V' cuts. Typically, the cutting edge is ground at 60 degrees to the axis of the tool - hence the term 'skew' and the tool has two bevels whose inclusive angle is anywhere between 25 and 45 degrees. Skews are now made in three styles - rectangular section, oval section and rolled edge section.

     
  • Bandsaw
     

    Bandsaw

    Bandsaw

    Bandsaws have a relatively small footprint and are often the first choice of machine as they can perform a variety of operations. A good quality machine accurately adjusted, with sharp blades can do rip cutting including deep ripping or even thick veneers, it can cut tenons for joints and various awkward shapes including tight curves if a narrow blade is fitted. For solid timber it is usual to fit skip tooth blades, these have a gap between each tooth thus allowing waste to clear quickly. For thin ply or MDF a fine tooth blade is needed.

     
  • Bowl Blank
     

    Bowl Blank

    Bowl Blank

    The prepared wood before shaping starts. A bowl blank will normally be cut as a disc from a board or plank using a bandsaw

     
  • Chuck
     

    Chuck

    Chuck

    A holding device consisting of adjustable jaws that centre a workpiece in a lathe or centre a tool in a drill. There are many different types of chuck. Scroll chuck, collet chuck, pin chuck and screw chuck are a few examples. The photograph shows a scroll chuck on the left and two different kinds of screw chuck

     

The finished piece (PHOTOGRAPHS BY GILLIAN OWEN)

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