Saved Pine Shelves

Friday 05 September 2008

Alan Holtham reclaimed some pine to make a stylish shelf unit

1.SMOOTH START: Hidden nails and screws can wreak havoc on your precious edge tools so go over dodgy-looking pieces with a metal detector and cut off any likely nail infestations

I can't seem to pass a skip without peering inside in the hope of finding some raw material that could just come in handy for a cheap project one of these days. My most recent discovery was spotted outside a gents outfitters which was undergoing a refurb. When I spotted some smashed-up shelving units made from clear yellow pine with no knots my heart skipped a beat because this material is a far cry from the quick-grown, knot-infested rubbish sold these days under the name of softwood.

For the cost of a drink surreptitiously slipped to the young foreman, this trove was mine. It speedily found its way into the back of my estate car.

As I had been asked some time back to make a small pine shelf unit and had been putting the job off, the prospect of making it for next to nothing spurred me into action. The project was not entirely plain sailing however...

First some drilling

With the sides cut to size, the first job is to drill the holes for the height-adjustable shelves. To ensure perfectly spaced holes on both components I used my Veritas drilling jig which comes with a range of guidebushes to suit

different-diameter drills. Use a piece of tape on the drill bit to act as a depth stop, and take care not to drill right through the side - not that I would ever make such a basic mistake, but more about that later! The Veritas jig allows you to produce both rows of holes at one setting, and then match them perfectly on the other piece with a single measurement (see photo 3).

Sand now!

Even old and dry timber can leave a fluffy surface straight off the planer, so it is easier to sand it thoroughly at this stage, before assembly, giving it a going over with a random orbit sander.

And plugs

The strength of modern glues means that reliance on traditional woodworking joints is becoming less important, and in fact you can often screw pieces together with just a thin smear of glue on each and still end up with a rock-solid joint. However, this inevitably leaves screw holes. The most successful way to disguise these is to use a wooden plug cut from matching material.

Living & learning

Despite my comedy of errors - probably a case of more haste less speed - I was pleased with this unit. The trouble is, as my workshop becomes more mechanised I find that not only are my mistakes more dramatic, they also happen a lot faster too! You never stop learning...

Glossary Rollover a term to view its definition

  • Drill Press
     

    Drill Press

    Drill Press

    For accurate perpendicular drilling the drill press cannot be bettered. The speeds can usually be changed via a belt change in the top case of the machine. Drill bits including very large diameter cutters such as forstner bits which may not have a 'centre' can be fitted in the chuck, these days there are keyless versions as well as the traditional keyed version. An adjustable drill table which can move up and down is used to place the workpiece under the drill for machining. There is always a depth stop feature so the depth of drilled holes can be set precisely.

     
  • Planer Thicknesser
     

    Planer Thicknesser

    Planer Thicknesser

    Most planers are two machines in one, a planer for machining smooth accurate surfaces and a thicknesser underneath, which machines boards parallel and smooth. Different machines have slightly different methods or swapping between functions but they all give the same kind of finished output. The planer tables need to be machined flat and smooth and the fence must also be flat and accurately set in order to produce flat reliable surfaces on timber before it can then be fed through the thicknesser. 'Overhand' planing is done by hand feeding, whereas thicknessing is powered.

     
  • Router
     

    Router

    Router

    Most routers are plunge type, which means the motor body is plunged to allow the cutter to enter the workpiece and make the cut. There are a few fixed body types which are normally pushed into the work from the end of the workpiece as the cutter is already projecting beneath the baseplate. Routers use special high-speed carefully balanced motors that drive a spindle in which a collet is fitted at the bottom end. The spindle runs in special high-speed bearings and the collet can be interchanged depending on what cutter shank size is in use. A collet is different from a chuck in that it can only hold a specific shank diameter whereas a chuck can be adjusted to suit any diameter within its range. The collet is the most critical part and the best machines have much better more reliable collets. This is important as cutting speeds can be as high as 27,000 rpm depending on the cutter type and size. Routers work best with some means of guidance such as a fence or guide bush.

     

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