Cylindrical Box

Tuesday 26 August 2008

This simple box by Mark Baker is elegant and practical

1.Take a piece of yellow box about 6in long by 2 1/2in square (150 x 63 x 63mm) and mark the diagonals on each end to find the centre

This piece in yellow box is an ideal introduction to the art of making boxes. It is one of the simplest types of box to create, yet it demonstrates the importance of a well-proportioned body and top, a lid that is not too stiff to lift off easily, matching grain throughout the box, nicely detailed lid and base sections, and a fine, lustrous finish.

This project provides an excellent foundation for other box designs: double-mounting (double-chucking) the body and lid; mounting the lid tightly in the base after turning the inside in order to form the final lid profile; then easing the fit, and finally reverse-chucking the base to finish the underside.

A good rule of thumb for creating well-proportioned boxes is to use 2/3 of the height for the base and 1/3 for the lid; an alternative is 3/5 and 2/5. This box is parallel from top to bottom; for a footed box, the foot needs to be at least 1/3 of the overall diameter for the sake of stability.

Glossary Rollover a term to view its definition

  • Drive Centre
     

    Drive Centre

    Drive Centre

    Also known as a four or two prong drive. The drive centre is attached to the lathe's spindle in the headstock, normally by a morse taper, but sometimes using a screw thread that matches the thread of the lathe's spindle. It supports the work at the headstock end and also provides the rotational drive to the workpiece. The Robert Sorby steb centre can also be referred to as a drive centre as it transmits the rotational force to drive the work piece round.

     
  • Parting Tool
     

    Parting Tool

    Parting Tool

    As the picture shows, there are several different types of parting tool - three of which are shown here. On the left is a narrow (3mm) parting tool which is very useful when parting work where the least amount of grain mismatch is desirable, for example when parting the lid from the base in box making. The middle tool is a straight sided, standard parting tool and the one on the right is a diamond parting tool where the widest part of the tool is at the cutting edge. This can be advantageous when cutting deep grooves because it means less of the tool is rubbing on the sides of the groove. Parting tools primary task is to part wood off in spindle work but they are also used to cut tenons or spigots and grooves. They can also be used to cut beads.

     
  • Skew Chisel
     

    Skew Chisel

    Skew Chisel

    An extremely useful tool but has a reputation for being difficult to control. Certainly you can get some nasty catches with it but it is worth mastering. It is used mainly in spindle work and produces a very fine finish from the tool, requiring little, if any sanding. Planing cuts, peeling cuts and slicing cuts can be made with the skew as well as turning beads, coves and 'V' cuts. Typically, the cutting edge is ground at 60 degrees to the axis of the tool - hence the term 'skew' and the tool has two bevels whose inclusive angle is anywhere between 25 and 45 degrees. Skews are now made in three styles - rectangular section, oval section and rolled edge section.

     
  • Spindle Roughing Gouge
     

    Spindle Roughing Gouge

    Spindle Roughing Gouge

    This gouge is semicircular in section and the bevel is ground at between 35 and 45 degrees. The cutting edge is usually ground straight across. It is normally used in spindle or between centres turning for reducing a square blank to a round section - known as roughing down. This gouge is commonly known as a roughing gouge, but is more accurately described as a Spindle Roughing Gouge as it must not be used on faceplate work, e.g. for turning bowls.

     
  • Tailstock
     

    Tailstock

    Tailstock

    Like the headstock, this is normally made from cast iron or fabricated in steel. It is designed to slide along the bed and be clamped to the bed in its chosen position. The method of clamping it varies between manufacturers, but a common clamping method is by means of a cam locking assembly. The tailstock houses the quill or barrel, which in turn houses a revolving centre, allowing spindle work to be supported.

     

hints

When hollowing the box, mark the gouge with tape to show how far to drill down. Alternatively, use a Forstner bit held in a Jacobs chuck in the tailstock.

Diagrams Click an image to enlarge

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