Free Standing Rack

Tuesday 12 August 2008

Alan Holtham builds this shelving and cupboard unit

1. The first stage in this project is to prepare the four long uprights. For speed and convenience I used solid European oak. The material is supplied as square-edged boards approximately 150mm wide, ideal for splitting down the middle to provide two uprights from each board

This bathroom storage rack is part of a suite of furniture for a modern bathroom, the wall cupboard having been featured last month. However, the design is so universal that it could be used equally well as a hallway unit or a display cabinet in the living room. In this case the timber requested by the clients was oak to match the rest of the bathroom, but I am always wary of using large pieces of solid material in an environment which is going to be subjected to such extremes of humidity. It is asking too much to expect wide panels to stay flat under such conditions, so where possible I use veneered board and lip the edges with solid material, though for the smaller-section material it is quite acceptable to use solid timber. To my mind veneered blockboard is better than veneered MDF, as although dearer it is stronger and much lighter in weight, as well as being totally stable and more pleasant to work. The downside of all these advantages is that all exposed edges need to be lipped, and you have to work it carefully to avoid chipping the very thin veneer.

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Glossary Rollover a term to view its definition

  • Compound Mitre Saw
     

    Compound Mitre Saw

    Compound Mitre Saw

    There are smaller machines that can only crosscut but the compound mitre saw is now a lot more common. It allows you to do compound as well as ordinary mitres. A compound mitre is one that is angles in both planes. Larger machines also have a pull-over feature whereby you can crosscut or mitre wide boards. The standard blade supplied usually has quite coarse teeth that may not be suitable for small components or fine work and it is wise to buy a more expensive fine tooth blade that you can fit when necessary. Proper work support is needed either side of the machine if you are cutting long boards such as skirtings.

     
  • Planer Thicknesser
     

    Planer Thicknesser

    Planer Thicknesser

    Most planers are two machines in one, a planer for machining smooth accurate surfaces and a thicknesser underneath, which machines boards parallel and smooth. Different machines have slightly different methods or swapping between functions but they all give the same kind of finished output. The planer tables need to be machined flat and smooth and the fence must also be flat and accurately set in order to produce flat reliable surfaces on timber before it can then be fed through the thicknesser. 'Overhand' planing is done by hand feeding, whereas thicknessing is powered.

     
  • Router
     

    Router

    Router

    Most routers are plunge type, which means the motor body is plunged to allow the cutter to enter the workpiece and make the cut. There are a few fixed body types which are normally pushed into the work from the end of the workpiece as the cutter is already projecting beneath the baseplate. Routers use special high-speed carefully balanced motors that drive a spindle in which a collet is fitted at the bottom end. The spindle runs in special high-speed bearings and the collet can be interchanged depending on what cutter shank size is in use. A collet is different from a chuck in that it can only hold a specific shank diameter whereas a chuck can be adjusted to suit any diameter within its range. The collet is the most critical part and the best machines have much better more reliable collets. This is important as cutting speeds can be as high as 27,000 rpm depending on the cutter type and size. Routers work best with some means of guidance such as a fence or guide bush.

     

horizontal router table

There is a lot of grooving and jointing work involved in this project and for this I prefer to use a home-made horizontal routing table. I have always found this to be much easier and more accurate to use than a vertical table, though of course they both have definite uses. For grooving you cannot beat the accessibility and visibility of cutting the material with it flat on the table, and if you think ahead a bit and cut all the grooves that have to match up before you change any settings, then it will all line up effortlessly at the final assembly stage. Such a table is dead easy to make and over the years will more than repay the time involved in its construction.

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