Turned And Decorated Fruit

Thursday 19 May 2011

Nick Arnull creates a selection of turned fruit using a variety of different timbers and decorates them so they look almost good enough to eat

1.The completed turned and decorated fruit

One of the most popular items I made while selling my work at craft fairs was turned wooden fruit. I always enjoyed seeing repeated sales as customers built a collection of different types of fruit or woods over the years.

In this article I am going to show you how to make some of these items without having to buy fancy chucks. Instead you can simply make your own small screw chucks to fit into your standard four-jaw self-centring chuck. One important point to add here is to use interesting timbers to give each piece of fruit visual interest. This will make your work stand out.

Tools used: 32mm (1 1/4in) spindle roughing gouge, 10mm (3/8in) beading/parting tool, 3mm 1/8in) parting tool, 1.5mm (1/16in) super thin parting tool, fingernail-profile spindle gouge, 10mm (3/8in) round skew chisel and 10mm (3/8in) point tool

Making the screw chuck

Step 1

When making fruits you generally follow a few basic principles: both ends need to be turned and finished, which can create some problems. To solve this you can make your own screw chuck. Begin by mounting your blank between centres, make round, then create two spigots to match your chuck jaws - one short and one long

Step 2

Mount the short spigot into the chuck and drill a 10mm (3/8in) hole to allow the screw head to be recessed inside the blank. Allow the screw to protrude out of the front by 15-20mm (9/16-3/4in)

Step 3

Reverse chuck the blank and taper the outside to a cone shape, dish the top slightly then drill a 3mm (1/8in) hole down the centre - this needs to match the correct diameter for the screw being used

Step 4

With the screw fitted tightly into the chuck, you can now fill the hole with Cyanoacrylate adhesive, which will prevent it coming loose

Turning the apple

Step 1

Centre and drill a small hole then mount the blank on the screw chuck using the tailstock for added support. Make the blank round then, using a 3mm (1/8in) drill mounted in a Jacobs chuck in the tailstock, drill a hole into the centre of the blank

Step 2

Replace the tailstock for added support and turn the profile of your apple

Step 3

Using the long wing of a spindle gouge, create a dimple in the bottom of the blank - this will become the bottom of the apple

Step 4

At this stage you can now sand, seal and polish the bottom then

remove the blank from the chuck

Step 5

Add a cardboard washer to the apple, the washer will help protect the finish as you are finishing and shaping the top

Step 6

You can now sand, seal and polish the form once again

Step 7

Using a single drop of Cyanoacrylate adhesive, install the stalk into the top of the form. I use real twigs but you could turn them, if you choose. I use dried silver birch twigs that are shed by the tree each year. I select the bit I want and discard the rest. These need to be dried or they may well shrink and fall out

Step 8

Now add a clove to create the remnants of the flower at the bottom. Again, you need to glue this in place

Turning the pear

Step 1

Firstly, you need to repeat stages 5-6 for turning the apple. Next, having turned the shape at the bottom, you now need to reverse chuck and create the top of the pear using the tailstock for added support. You can then sand, seal and finish as before

Turning the lemon

Step 1

Again, repeat stages 5-6 but do not make the second drill hole too deep, as this will be turned away as work progresses. You will notice that the blank is longer than the finished item - this allows the chucking method to be turned away. Next, using the Robert Sorby texturing tool, create a lemon-type texture on the surface of the fruit then lightly sand

Step 2

At this stage you can apply a coat of sanding sealer and then denib. Reverse chuck and turn the opposite end of the lemon, again using the tailstock for added support, while removing the waste timber that contains the chucking method. You can then sand, if this is required

Step 3

Use the tailstock with a protected drive - I use my rubber drive and texture the remaining area of the fruit - then lightly sand and seal the piece. Remove from the lathe and then insert a cup hook - this will allow the piece to be hung as it dries - apply a coat of satin spray lacquer, then allow to dry

Turning the plum

Step 1

Turn the top of the fruit as before, then sand, seal, and finish taking care not to overheat the timber as species like purpleheart/exotics can be prone to heat check, and this is to be avoided at all costs. Reverse chuck, remove the excess timber and refine the final shape. Take care to get the end grain cut cleanly at this stage, then you can sand and seal the fruit

Step 2

When the sealer is dry you can denib and polish, but do not be disappointed if your plum is not purple as the timber is one that needs time to oxidise and take on its full colour. Patience is called for here

Turning & making the bunch of grapes

Step 1

To make grapes, you can either use a chuck with small jaws and part them off from a rod as each is completed, or you can use a jam chuck to hold the rod. Alternatively, but only if you have a hollow headstock, you can use the Morse taper to hold the blank/rod. If you have a solid headstock spindle, then you can use one of the alternatives detailed above. Create a rod and turn a taper on one end to match the Morse taper of you lathe, then fit this as you would any other drive. Use the tailstock for added support while turning the grape. Drill a small hole in the end, turn the grape, sand, and part off. When completed, no finish is applied on the lathe. Now repeat until you have 24 grapes of varying sizes. Reverse chuck the grape onto a micro screw chuck, again, this is held in the chuck to allow the grape to be finished. The screw chuck is the same as for the apple and pear, but smaller. You can find suitable rubber stalks at cash and carries, in fruit shops, and even at greengrocers. Remove the plastic grapes then cut off one side of the 'T' - this is varied to allow the grapes to fall differently or they might all fall to one side. This is easily done with a small pair of snippers. Carefully apply one drop of Cyanoacrylate to the stalk and then attach the grape. Continue until the bunch is complete then you can allow to dry

Step 2

Use lemon oil to finish the grapes, then hang on a hook and allow to dry

Glossary Rollover a term to view its definition

  • Parting Tool
     

    Parting Tool

    Parting Tool

    As the picture shows, there are several different types of parting tool - three of which are shown here. On the left is a narrow (3mm) parting tool which is very useful when parting work where the least amount of grain mismatch is desirable, for example when parting the lid from the base in box making. The middle tool is a straight sided, standard parting tool and the one on the right is a diamond parting tool where the widest part of the tool is at the cutting edge. This can be advantageous when cutting deep grooves because it means less of the tool is rubbing on the sides of the groove. Parting tools primary task is to part wood off in spindle work but they are also used to cut tenons or spigots and grooves. They can also be used to cut beads.

     
  • Skew Chisel
     

    Skew Chisel

    Skew Chisel

    An extremely useful tool but has a reputation for being difficult to control. Certainly you can get some nasty catches with it but it is worth mastering. It is used mainly in spindle work and produces a very fine finish from the tool, requiring little, if any sanding. Planing cuts, peeling cuts and slicing cuts can be made with the skew as well as turning beads, coves and 'V' cuts. Typically, the cutting edge is ground at 60 degrees to the axis of the tool - hence the term 'skew' and the tool has two bevels whose inclusive angle is anywhere between 25 and 45 degrees. Skews are now made in three styles - rectangular section, oval section and rolled edge section.

     
  • Spindle Gouge
     

    Spindle Gouge

    Spindle Gouge

    Modern day spindle gouges are made in the same way as bowl gouges - from a round bar of M2 high speed steel with the flute milled out. The flute is shallower and more open than that of a bowl gouge. Traditionally spindles gouges were forged from a flat, rectangular sectioned bar and some manufacturers have started making a modern day version of this, commonly known as the Continental Style spindle gouge. Like their name suggests, spindle gouges are used to cut details such as beads, coves and fillets on spindle work.

     
  • Spindle Roughing Gouge
     

    Spindle Roughing Gouge

    Spindle Roughing Gouge

    This gouge is semicircular in section and the bevel is ground at between 35 and 45 degrees. The cutting edge is usually ground straight across. It is normally used in spindle or between centres turning for reducing a square blank to a round section - known as roughing down. This gouge is commonly known as a roughing gouge, but is more accurately described as a Spindle Roughing Gouge as it must not be used on faceplate work, e.g. for turning bowls.

     
  • Tailstock
     

    Tailstock

    Tailstock

    Like the headstock, this is normally made from cast iron or fabricated in steel. It is designed to slide along the bed and be clamped to the bed in its chosen position. The method of clamping it varies between manufacturers, but a common clamping method is by means of a cam locking assembly. The tailstock houses the quill or barrel, which in turn houses a revolving centre, allowing spindle work to be supported.

     
  • Between Centres
     

    Between Centres

    Between Centres

    The term given to holding a workpiece between a centre (e.g. four prong, two prong, steb centre) in the headstock spindle and a centre (e.g. revolving, cup) in the tailstock spindle

     
  • Screw Chuck
     

    Screw Chuck

    Screw Chuck

    This can be described as a small faceplate that has a single screw centrally located in it. Two types are common, The first makes use of a standard mild steel screw (the Record Power screw chuck is a good example of this) and the second is a parallel sided machined screw that usually fits into the jaws of a scroll chuck

     

timber requirements

Apple: Spalted beech

75 x 75 x 75mm (3 x 3 x 3in)

Pear: Black palmira

75 x 75 x 90mm (3 x 3 x 31/2in)

Plums: Purpleheart

45 x 45 x 70mm (1 3/4 x 1 3/4 2 3 3/4in)

Grapes: Pink ivory

25 x 25 x 150mm (1 x 1 x 6in)

Lemon: Pau amarello

60 x 60 x 100mm (2 3/4 x 2 3/4 x 4in)

Screw chuck: English beech

45 x 45 x 70mm (1 3/4 x 1 3/4 2 3 3/4in)

time taken & cost

Apple: £2; 15 mins each

Pear: £4; 15 mins each

Plums: £3; 15 mins each

Grapes: £1.20; 24 required, total 4 1/2hrs

Lemon: £2; 20 mins

Screw chuck: £1; 45 mins

health & safety

1. Protect your eyes and lungs at all times, and work at a speed that allows you to feel both comfortable and safe

2. Always reduce lathe rotation speed when using wood that is not round and when using alternative chucking methods that you are not familiar with

3. Keep the toolrest between you and the work - NEVER let your fingers cross over to the other side

4. Remove the toolrest when sanding and applying finishes

handy hints

1. Reduce the lathe speed when sanding or use a lubricant to avoid heat check when working with exotics

2. Use decorative pieces of timber when making fruit

3. Use a type of timber that matches the piece of fruit

you are making

4. When working with exotics, it may be advantageous to sharpen your tools more frequently than if turning English native species

woodturning says...

Turned pieces of fruit are fun to make and present great options for using up small sections of wood that end up being stored in the workshop. The shapes are easy to form, do not cost much in the way of time or money, and they make nice gifts.

Diagrams Click an image to enlarge


The turned apple


The turned bunch of grapes


The turned lemon


The turned pear


The turned plum

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