Hawaiian Inspired Fragrance Diffuser

Tuesday 05 April 2011

Steven Russell takes influence from his trips to Hawaii and creates this charming fragrance diffuser for the home, which is made using a natural edge burr

1.The completed Hawaiian inspired fragrance diffuser

When you're used to doing lots of production turning, it's always refreshing to take a break and just turn a fun and relaxing project. This project came about after one of my recent trips to Hawaii, where fragrance and scented oil reed diffusers are common on the island of Maui. Unfortunately, these diffusers all come with tall reeds that allow the fragrance to be released into the air. Although the reeds work well, they are not visually attractive and seem to excel at being a dust magnet. Since I could not find a better-looking diffuser anywhere, I decided to turn my own using a natural edge burr.

Scented and aromatherapy oils are available at numerous places including speciality boutiques, online merchants, cooking supply stockists, and even grocery stores.

A plethora of fragrances is available that will allow you to easily find one that appeals to you. These types of diffusers can be used in almost any room in your home and offer a long lasting, slow release of the fragrance.

This fun spindle project can be turned from scraps you have lying about in your workshop. The only caveat is that you should limit your timber choices for the wick and diffuser to timbers that are free of natural oils, or strong scents to prevent discolouring or altering the scent of the fragrance.

Tools used: 3mm (1/8in) parting tool, 6mm (1/4in) bowl gouge, 6mm (1/4in) spindle gouge, beading/parting tool, Easy Woods Tools ci3-h5 Easy Hollower, Ci3m Mini Finisher, Ci1 Easy Rougher and C12m Mini Rougher

Step 1

Take a scrap piece of York gum burr that measures approximately 75 x 75mm (3 x 3in) and mount using a two, four prong or a Steb centre in the headstock and a revolving centre in the tailstock. All portions of the project should be turned at 3,200rpm

Step 2

The initial rounding over is completed using an Ci1 Easy Rougher carbide tool, or a bowl gouge. To shape the bowl, use a 6mm (1/4in) spindle gouge, ground with a swept-back grind. To further define the collar area on the diffuser, use a Ci2 Mini Rougher, or a beading/parting tool, outfitted with the square faced carbide cutter

Step 3

The basic roughout profile for the diffuser is now complete. Make sure you leave the lower collar area with sufficient mass at this point, to provide adequate support to the bowl whilst hollowing

Step 4

Hollowing of the interior diffuser bowl is completed with the Easy Wood Tools Ci3-h5 Easy Hollower, or a bowl gouge and a round nosed scraper

Step 5

The completed interior diffuser bowl after the hollowing is finished

Step 6

Since this project has a natural edge, most of the sanding is done by hand, with the lathe turned off. The surface is sanded using 320, 400 and 600 grit abrasives. The outer base - the collar - of the diffuser is then rough turned using a 6mm (1/4in) spindle gouge

Step 7

Final turning of the base is completed using the 6mm (1/4in) spindle gouge. Part the diffuser off using a 1.5mm (1/16in) super thin parting tool. The diffuser is now ready for reverse chucking to complete the collar

Step 8

Turn a simple friction chuck to allow reverse turning of the lower collar. To turn the lower collar, I use a simple homemade tool, fashioned from an old Allen wrench fitted in a handle for easy tool control, ground with flats to allow use as a 90 degree angled scraper. Size the collar to fit the top of the glass bottle you are using

Step 9

Turn the lower wicking element from a 12mm (1/2in) square x 140mm (5 1/2in) long piece of silver maple (Acer rubrum). After initial shaping with the Ci1 Mini Rougher, or spindle gouge, finish turning is completed using a 5mm (3/16in) spindle gouge, ground with a swept back grind. This is one of my favourite tools

for turning fine detailed elements

Step 10

Although it will not be seen when the diffuser is in use, I added two beads and an oval section to the wick for an extra touch of elegance. Turn the top end of the wick to 6mm (1/4in) in diameter and mount into a drilled hole in the bottom of the centre collar's stem area

Step 11

Once the turning is complete, sand the surface using 320, 400 and 600 grit abrasives. Next, blow any dust residue off the surface of the diffuser and the wick using high-pressure air. The completed diffuser and wick assembly. Mount the wick with a tight friction fit in the bottom of the collar stem, inside a 6mm (1/4in) hole that is drilled using a Forstner bit, 10mm (3/8in) deep. The diffuser is now complete

Glossary Rollover a term to view its definition

  • Bowl Gouge
     

    Bowl Gouge

    Bowl Gouge

    A cutting tool with a deep flute and a heavy cross-section. These are normally made from round bars and the flute is milled out. The round bar fits into the handle thus giving the tool a great deal of strength to enable it to overhang the toolrest a long way in order to hollow out deep bowls. Its primary function is for faceplate - or bowl turning - but it can also be used in spindle work. The bevel angle is ground to suit the user but is anything between 40 degrees and 80 degrees. Traditionally, bowl gouges are ground straight across, but many turners prefer to grind the wings back. There are many terms for a swept back bowl gouge - fingernail grind, O'Donnell grind, Irish grind, Ellsworth grind, lady's finger - to name a few. There may be subtle differences in these grinds, but generically they are all bowl gouge grinds where the wings have been ground back.

     
  • Parting Tool
     

    Parting Tool

    Parting Tool

    As the picture shows, there are several different types of parting tool - three of which are shown here. On the left is a narrow (3mm) parting tool which is very useful when parting work where the least amount of grain mismatch is desirable, for example when parting the lid from the base in box making. The middle tool is a straight sided, standard parting tool and the one on the right is a diamond parting tool where the widest part of the tool is at the cutting edge. This can be advantageous when cutting deep grooves because it means less of the tool is rubbing on the sides of the groove. Parting tools primary task is to part wood off in spindle work but they are also used to cut tenons or spigots and grooves. They can also be used to cut beads.

     
  • Scraper
     

    Scraper

    Scraper

    As its name suggests, scrapers scrape the wood rather than cut it and generally leave a poorer surface finish on the wood than cutting tools. Unlike cutting tools, do not use the bevel rubbing technique with a scraper. In fact the 'bevel' is really a clearance rake and allows the cutting edge to come to a sharper edge. Sharpen or hone it often and take very light cuts with a scraper. You should get shavings; if you are only getting dust, resharpen it. Scrapers come in all shapes and sizes - square edge, round nosed, French curve, box scrapers and hardwood scrapers. The picture shows a 1/2 inch round nosed scraper.

     
  • Spindle Gouge
     

    Spindle Gouge

    Spindle Gouge

    Modern day spindle gouges are made in the same way as bowl gouges - from a round bar of M2 high speed steel with the flute milled out. The flute is shallower and more open than that of a bowl gouge. Traditionally spindles gouges were forged from a flat, rectangular sectioned bar and some manufacturers have started making a modern day version of this, commonly known as the Continental Style spindle gouge. Like their name suggests, spindle gouges are used to cut details such as beads, coves and fillets on spindle work.

     
  • Headstock
     

    Headstock

    Headstock

    This is normally made from cast iron or fabricated in steel and houses the lathe's spindle and one set of pulleys. (The corresponding set of pulleys it attached to the motor's spindle, which in some models can also be incorporated within the headstock) The spindle is supported by two or more bearings at the front and back of the headstock. Some lathes have their headstock fixed rigidly to the bed; others are designed to swivel and/or move along the bed. Rigidly fixed headstocks have their spindles in line with the bed and the diameter of work they are capable of holding is limited by the height of the spindle above the bed. Lathes whose headstock swivel are not limited in this way.

     
  • Tailstock
     

    Tailstock

    Tailstock

    Like the headstock, this is normally made from cast iron or fabricated in steel. It is designed to slide along the bed and be clamped to the bed in its chosen position. The method of clamping it varies between manufacturers, but a common clamping method is by means of a cam locking assembly. The tailstock houses the quill or barrel, which in turn houses a revolving centre, allowing spindle work to be supported.

     
  • Natural Edge
     

    Natural Edge

    Natural Edge

    The rim of a bowl, goblet, hollow form whose shape includes the natural form of the tree, including the bark

     

about the author

Steve Russell has been a professional woodturner since 1995. He is currently writing a book on innovative finishing techniques for woodturners. Steve is the founding president of Lone Star Woodturners. His website offers over 100 free woodturning articles. In his spare time, Steve is active with the Mercedes-Benz Club.

Email: steverussell2436@comcast.net

Website

time taken & cost

Time taken: 1 hour (approximately)

Cost: £6

where to buy scented oils and reed diffusers

1. Malie Organics:

Website

2. Williams-Sonoma:

Website

3. Crabtree and Evelyn:

Website

4. The Body Shop:

Website

handy hints

1. I wanted to try the Easy Wood tools range for this project to see how they performed, but you could also use the traditional turning tools I have indicated

2. For best results, keep the upper diffuser element walls between 1/16in and 1/32in thick

3. To speed initial absorption of the fragrance oil, use a small brush to saturate the upper diffuser element

4. Soft hardwoods like silver maple release more fragrance, whereas dense timbers like hard maple release less

Diagrams Click an image to enlarge

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