Techniques Required for Adding Rims

Thursday 04 March 2010

Gabor Lacko shows you the techniques needed for adding a separate rim to a turned platter

1.Start with a 254mm (10in) diameter 2mm (5/64in) thick plywood disc. Cut this using a bandsaw and in the centre make a 75mm (3in) diameter hole with a Forstner bit

This article looks at how to create a small bowl, then the process of adding a separate rim to turn it into a platter; the 'platter' is then finished by adding a surround/rim. The rim can be turned from different types of material and they also can be of varying thicknesses. On the added rim we can not only use all the techniques we use when decorating platters: inserting discs, carba-tec, or carba-tecing and flame charring, we also can attach a rim, made of a thin ply, veneer or plastic, that can then be further processed with surprising effects. All the platters require a rim, bowl and a surround.

Making the rim

Step 1

Start with a 254mm (10in) diameter 2mm (5/64in) thick plywood disc. Cut this using a bandsaw and in the centre make a 75mm (3in) diameter hole with a Forstner bit. Held by the centre hole on a chuck, sand the perimeter of the disc to a smooth finish. You want to make the rim about 75mm (3in) wide, so make a jig to hold the plywood disc

Step 2

The hub in the centre locates the disc and the turned wooden dome stops it from slipping. The outside edge of the rim is fixed with sticky tape to prevent movement after separation. To make the rim the right size, mark out a circle with a pencil at the desired point on the disc while the lathe is running

Step 3

With a narrow parting off tool separate the centre part of the disc

Step 4

Remove the screw from the hub, and then remove the hub and the rim of the correct width

Making the bowl

Step 5

Use a mahogany bowl blank to turn the outside of the bowl. At the top of the bowl there will be a bezel and the rim will fit below this bezel

Step 6

At this point the bowl has to be the correct diameter to accommodate the plywood rim. When you approach the correct diameter take only tiny cuts to make sure that the rim fits perfectly on the hub. When you have achieved a good fit carry on shaping the bowl and finish the final shape with sanding sealer and wax. Also, turn a 100mm (4in) diameter spigot for reversing the bowl

Step 7

Reverse the bowl on the chuck, turn the inside, and then apply sanding sealer and wax to get the required finish. Here is the finished bowl with the plywood rim mounted

Step 8

The plywood rim is then fitted with a mahogany surround, turned from a wide ring approximately 280mm (11in) diameter, 50mm (2in) width. Mount it on button jaws and mark out the inside and outside diameters, plus the thickness of the surround

Step 9

Having developed the shape using a very thin parting tool, remove the surround

Step 10

Here is the finished surround. This surround mounted on the assembly completes the bowl

Other options for adding rims

1. Inserting discs

2. Flame charring

3. Attached rim made or veneer or plastic

4. Pierced rim

5. Inlaid rim

Glossary Rollover a term to view its definition

  • Parting Tool
     

    Parting Tool

    Parting Tool

    As the picture shows, there are several different types of parting tool - three of which are shown here. On the left is a narrow (3mm) parting tool which is very useful when parting work where the least amount of grain mismatch is desirable, for example when parting the lid from the base in box making. The middle tool is a straight sided, standard parting tool and the one on the right is a diamond parting tool where the widest part of the tool is at the cutting edge. This can be advantageous when cutting deep grooves because it means less of the tool is rubbing on the sides of the groove. Parting tools primary task is to part wood off in spindle work but they are also used to cut tenons or spigots and grooves. They can also be used to cut beads.

     
  • Bandsaw
     

    Bandsaw

    Bandsaw

    Bandsaws have a relatively small footprint and are often the first choice of machine as they can perform a variety of operations. A good quality machine accurately adjusted, with sharp blades can do rip cutting including deep ripping or even thick veneers, it can cut tenons for joints and various awkward shapes including tight curves if a narrow blade is fitted. For solid timber it is usual to fit skip tooth blades, these have a gap between each tooth thus allowing waste to clear quickly. For thin ply or MDF a fine tooth blade is needed.

     
  • Forstner Bit
     

    Forstner Bit

    Forstner Bit

    A specialist bit, similar to a sawtooth bit but without the teeth. They cut a parallel sided, flat bottomed hole. These bits can cut overlapping holes. The photo shows a Forstner bit on the left and a saw toothed bit on the right

     

Diagrams Click an image to enlarge

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