Outdoor Sculptures

Tuesday 22 December 2009

Michael O Donnell turns these charming wooden bird ornaments which make great additions to a garden fence

1.The completed bird ornaments

I accepted a commission in 1992 and am just about to tackle it. It started on a visit to Germany to see Martin Nolte who was about to launch a German woodturning magazine. On the gates of Martin's family farm near where we were staying, there was a gate with turned wooden birds on it, so I took a photograph. I showed it to Liz, my wife, when I got home and she was excited by them and immediately wanted me to make some.

This project makes five birds, including sea birds. For these five birds you will need five bodies, five heads, five tails and five beaks, 10 eyes and eight wings. Now we are getting into the realms of batch production but it gives you an opportunity to refine the shapes. They don't have to be the same size or shape, so you can use any odd bits of wood you may have around the workshop.

The basic body is almost egg shaped - even the head resembles an egg, though a spherical head also works well: put a flat area at the front so that the beak will sit neatly.

For this project I used various timbers including ash, African blackwood, spalted sycamore, yew and fruit woods including apple and redwood for the painted birds.

Tools used

Spindle roughing gouge, deep fluted gouge, shallow fluted gouge, sizing tool (bedan), left-hand skewed scraper and right-hand skewed scraper

Making the body

Step 1

Hold between centres, rough to the round and slightly shape with the spindle roughing gouge (cut 1)

Step 2

Square the ends with the deep fluted gouge (cuts 2 and 3)

Step 3

Mark the size of the spigot with a pencil

Step 4

Make a spigot with the deep fluted gouge - just one cut. Make the spigot longer than the jaws so that it sits against the back of the jaws (cut 4)

Step 5

In the spigot chuck, shape the front end with the deep fluted gouge (cut 5)

Step 6

Continue shaping around the back with the deep fluted gouge (cut 6)

Step 7

Refine the shape at the front with the left-hand skewed scraper (cut 7)

Step 8

Refine the shape at the back with the right-hand skewed scraper (cut 8)

Step 9

It is now time to sand. I started with 100 grit on the soft wood as it also refines the shape. Sand down to 240 grit for the natural birds and down to 150 grit for the painted birds

Step 10

For the drilling, make a guide to fit in the place of the toolrest - a hardwood one will last longer. Drill the hole for the leg. Use the indexing on the headstock to rotate the body 180 degrees to drill for the head, and if there is enough space also do this for the tail

Step 11

Remove waste to clear space for the finish shaping using the shallow fluted gouge (cut 12)

Step 12

Use the shallow fluted gouge to shape the end of the body. Support the body in the right hand, and use the thumb to guide the tool (cut 13)

Step 13

Continue shaping until the piece is parted off (cut 13). Leave a slight pimple to be sanded off by hand. For the larger bodies, when you are down to 12mm(1/2in)) diameter use a handsaw to separate, then sand

Step 14

Plane flats on the side of the body and drill a hole to take the wings on a dowel

Making the head

Step 15

Turn the head using a similar procedure then drill for the beak from the tailstock, and drill for the neck

Making the beak

Step 16

Hold the square section for the beaks directly in the chuck and turn to shape. Slightly hollow the beak so that it will sit flat on the body, and then size the pin with callipers

Step 17

For the painted birds shape the beaks on a sanding pad by hand

Making the tail

Step 18

Cut out the tail to shape on a scroll saw, then sand to thickness and make the spigot on a sanding disc

Step 19

For the wings, turn another shape, smaller than the body but elongated in shape, then use a hand saw to slice off two wings. Turning a larger piece with the intention of cutting four wings gives a very poor wing shape

Glossary Rollover a term to view its definition

  • Spindle Roughing Gouge
     

    Spindle Roughing Gouge

    Spindle Roughing Gouge

    This gouge is semicircular in section and the bevel is ground at between 35 and 45 degrees. The cutting edge is usually ground straight across. It is normally used in spindle or between centres turning for reducing a square blank to a round section - known as roughing down. This gouge is commonly known as a roughing gouge, but is more accurately described as a Spindle Roughing Gouge as it must not be used on faceplate work, e.g. for turning bowls.

     
  • Headstock
     

    Headstock

    Headstock

    This is normally made from cast iron or fabricated in steel and houses the lathe's spindle and one set of pulleys. (The corresponding set of pulleys it attached to the motor's spindle, which in some models can also be incorporated within the headstock) The spindle is supported by two or more bearings at the front and back of the headstock. Some lathes have their headstock fixed rigidly to the bed; others are designed to swivel and/or move along the bed. Rigidly fixed headstocks have their spindles in line with the bed and the diameter of work they are capable of holding is limited by the height of the spindle above the bed. Lathes whose headstock swivel are not limited in this way.

     
  • Toolrest
     

    Toolrest

    Toolrest

    The toolrest sits in the toolpost, or banjo and can be swivelled and adjusted in height. It can be clamped in position normally by means of a Bristol Locking lever. The top of the toolrest should be kept smooth and dent free to allow the tool to traverse it smoothly. Special curved toolrests can be bought for bowl turning to reduce the amount the tool that needs to overhang the rest when hollowing a deep bowl. Similarly, special toolrests can be bought for deep hollow forms. The picture shows the toolrest sitting in the banjo of an SIP 01360 lathe.

     
  • Between Centres
     

    Between Centres

    Between Centres

    The term given to holding a workpiece between a centre (e.g. four prong, two prong, steb centre) in the headstock spindle and a centre (e.g. revolving, cup) in the tailstock spindle

     
  • Spigot
     

    Spigot

    Spigot

    A parallel or dovetail shaped projection protruding from the end of a piece of wood, suitable for being held in the jaws of a chuck in compression mode. Sometimes a spigot is called a tenon

     

Diagrams Click an image to enlarge

handy hints

1. When drilling the holes to fit the head, make sure the drill is square to the point of contact

2. If the head does not sit flat on the body, rub the head against the body - on the dowel - to see where it is contacting, then sand off. Repeat this until a snug fit is obtained

3. Make the front of the head flat so that the beak will sit squarely

4. slightly recess the back of the beak

5. If you are going to paint the birds, it is easier to do so before assembly. Use short lengths of dowel to fit the head and wings, and adjust their positions to give a pleasing look. I marked the position of the eyes last, for which I used coloured wooden beads held on with a small-headed pin (as used for picture hooks). Drill a small pilot hole first and once you are happy with the positions of all the parts then they can be glued in. For the legs use 10mm (3/8in) bright steel bar and a piece of rough wood as a base, this is before they are placed outside on the fence

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